Buenos Aires

About a month ago, I went back to Buenos Aires and spent two weeks there. A few months prior to that, I left after living there for a year, so this post will be longer than the rest. I'll start with the pictures, which I chose because I think they all reveal something of the culture and the feel of the streets. Most of them were taken in San Telmo or nearby, which is not representative of the city at large but it's the BA that I lived in. Unfortunately, the poverty is generally worse in the rest of the city.

There is a combination of new-world beauty and crushing poverty, anger, frustration, and decay in Buenos Aires. To me, above all else, Buenos Aires feels like a decaying world-class city. It is passionate, loud, and proud of its own contradictions. Walking down the streets, decades-old buses chug by, emitting clouds of black smog as scores of beautiful women saunter down the streets, dressed up in full make-up and high-heels, smoking a cigarette. On the same crowded streets, homeless people permanently reside at various shelters along the sidewalk, normally keeping to themselves. Politically, the city is captured by an old-school brand of Latin nationalism, protectionism, and populism. The U.S. is hated for its politics, history, and, in my opinion, also for its vast wealth. Culturally, U.S. music reigns supreme while in just about every other regard Europe is emulated (or at the very least more admired). Most local rock songs are made by their own bands, but about half of the time the tune is recognizably borrowed (but it's not wise to talk about this with locals). The Porteños (people from Buenos Aires) number about a third of the country (14 million or so of about 40 million) and are a world unto themselves. It's like comparing New Yorkers to my family from North Carolina - they are very different. Within that insulated world in Buenos Aires, the people are very proud. Extremely proud. They have that reputation throughout Latin America, and as part of one of the world's great cities, some of that pride is certainly warranted. Ask them for a description of their country, and the words most, best, worst, or greatest are likely to come up. Visitors are generally surprised by the prices: they are high and are generally increasing. Inflation runs at 25% annually or worse. Every decade or so, the country is beset by a terrible economic bust, generally initiated by a currency crisis. The last time the economy imploded, in 2001, unemployment in the city reached 70%. They have been working their way out ever since, continuing a cycle that goes back to the beginnings of the 20th century. The government runs a high-spending, high-taxing, very redistributive form of government on a generally European model taken even further, compounded by the corrosive effects of high levels of corruption and a general sense of victimization (leading to nationalizations).

Living there as a foreigner, particularly from the U.S., was an eye-opening experience. I learned Spanish (Castellano) fairly well and was generally very well-received by the locals (with some notable exceptions aside). In general, I have the habit of bringing up politics, history, and economics as conversation topics, which is not the best way to make friends and generate warm feelings as a gringo in Latin America. Particularly since I'm inclined to argue that, while the U.S. was responsible for some terrible actions in the region (such as supporting some nasty dictatorships in the 1970s and 1980s), Latin America has generally made its own bed in my opinion. Oh well. Can't go through life being friends with everybody. I had enough friends anyways and did get better at steering the topic away from guaranteed points of friction.

Nights there run long. Bars don't close until 5 in the morning and the locals party even later into the night, although they don't drink very much (otherwise I don't think they'd survive). It's normal to walk by a restaurant at midnight on a weekend and see a family out at dinner with their grandparents and grandchildren all there as well. It is an extremely family-oriented society, and in general human relationships are warmer and tighter. People embrace by a kiss on the cheek (even amongst men, though only between friends). Sharing is an ingrained part of the culture (good luck opening up a beer and trying to drink it yourself). For me, it was one of the best parts of being there.

I feel as if I could ramble on forever, and may in fact do so throughout life, but I'll cut myself off here for now and perhaps add to this later.